Lipstick and rouge, Cafes of Daegu in a cooler season

I am sitting at Cafe Francesco in Chilgok, a district in Daegu that is more like a suburban hideaway in the mountains. There is no harsh reality, no metro to hear the panhandlers play for coins (though I know that most would prefer folding cash). There is a sort of pretense that plays out in the cafes. The absence of generations is evident. The crowds that frequent the cafes are usually the young students that come to congregate, giggle, and yes, be young. There is still a certain kind of sophistication that is blended in the cafes with the effort to emulate those that are around the world. What makes them Korean is that the menus seem to always have the phrase, "I'm sorry, we don't have that today."These cafes are not like the ones in more urban areas, that really have a cross section that filter through. No, the drama here are more like the kind of dramas you would see of the young and uncertain kind. The unknowing and inexperienced kind. Not much changes. No matter where you go, drama is drama. There are days where I do wish I had a remote that would enable subtitles, and others when I could just hit the mute button.

At another cafe, they have a running track that cycles jazz standards, I know because after about 45 minutes the same rotation starts again. It was a short lived love affair, the illusion broken with the third playing of "As Time Goes By". I wanted to say, "No Sam, please don't play it again." Time did go by, and I realized that nothing substitutes for the real sound of a languished saxophone player in a deserted square, playing under a street lamp in the dead hours of a cool Paris night. It is a cruel joy to witness and striking to hear the emotion of someone breathing those notes into life.

There is one thing I have noticed with all of these cafes. There is no Korean identity. Instead, they try to create an environment that is associated with either America or Europe. As much as they try, there can only be one Eiffel Tower. Nothing beats the original, or an original thought. That has been the puzzle for me, here in Korea. Koreans seem to want to be anything BUT Korean. Then I look around and realize now why only the young seem to be attracted to these coffee houses...it is precisely for that reason.

As I sit in a cafe, my thoughts are distracted, noting a map of Belgium, and wondering why the countries surrounding Belgium are spelt in English....

Here's looking at you with lipstick and rouge...kid.

Enough of the Fear Factory...Raging with a Little Humor

I am starting the month of May with something on the lighter side. After being inundated with issues over communication...not to mention plagued with being sick of the fear factory (AKA the media at large, the WHO, governments who want their own share of fear generating media, the economy, the this and that crisis of the moment; to include global warming, global sickness, global starvation, global economic meltdowns, bombings, suicides, etc. etc.)... I HAVE FINALLY SAID IT IS ENOUGH! I didn't realize how badly I needed to laugh. I am personally worn out. Fear kills. I am personally sick of all of the things that MIGHT happen. I might die tomorrow...I might die in 100 years being the oldest person on the planet. I don't know what may or may not happen...and I believe that is a good thing. So, I am going about the business I know best...and that is being exactly who I am and having my own little fear rebellion. I am going to focus on the only thing I can focus on...and that is my own little world. The only place where I can make any difference.

We can't change anything in a life position of fear. It is one thing I have always known and lived by...and for a moment...namely this week...I had temporary amnesia...and started to get caught up in this webbed world of having to know...only to find this disruption in my life. Venting over with. Advice is not being dispensed...I am declaring my personal state of being passionately disaffected. My self-talk, "Control is within your span of control...and quit feeling helpless about things that are outside of your control."

So I once again could open my eyes and find this for your viewing pleasure. Graphic Tees are often amusing for me. Korean graphic tees are even more so. Often the messages are not what is intended. Often the messages are confusing. Often the messages can make me smile in my foulest of moods.

This one is a classic on writing...the image and the words have nothing to do with writing. "Writing...if you show me real love baby, I'll show you mine...I can make you nice and naughty"

Go ahead...laugh. Didn't that feel good??

Fighting the Bull about Korean Bullfighting at Cheongdo

When I told a friend of mine that I was going to watch bull fighting in Korea, I got the "No thanks! I puked my guts out when I went to a bull fight in Spain." What is controversial about bullfighting in Latin Cultures is totally absent from the bull fighting contests in South Korea. I had made an earlier posting about attending this cultural event that is an annual event in Cheongdo, South Korea. I had heard stories that were akin to dog fights, complete with gratuitous violence. There was even some outcry about boycotting this event from some of our expatriate community members. I took all of this into consideration. I weighed it out. If what was said was true, I had to go because it would totally oppose my view of Korean culture as peaceful and incredible respectful of life. It didn't matter what anyone thought, I am here in Korean to take in as much as I can while I am a guest in this country.

I am very happy to report that some of the reports that I had read had to be written by individuals who had only heard these 'foreign folk tales' and failed to see the beauty of this contest. They obviously never went and only reported hearsay accounts, overlaid their own prejudices to discredit this event.
I saw the handlers treat the animals with a respect that was returned by the animal. These matches are matches of the beast's strength. There is a reason these contests have endured for over one thousand years...they are indeed entertaining and have the spirit of sportsmanship. The oxen are valued creatures in the rural communities, and for their livestock to be mistreated for brutality sake would be viewed by Koreans as incredible waste.

A match is started by the handlers (trainers) guiding the bulls towards each other with a single rope. When the bulls are engaged the rope is disengaged. The match is immediately ended when a bull retreats. What this equates to is little more than a shoving match, where the most violent episode occurs with the initial contact of the bulls meeting each other with force and locking horns.

I invite you to watch the video, which took forever to upload. You will hear not a blood thirsty crowd, but laughter and you will see respect for the display of power of these magnificent animals. Perhaps these kinds of contests would be far better than the sheer slaughter of the Latin bull fighting rings we see in the west. There is no sport to watching the slaughter of animals.

I continue to be amazed at what I find here in Korea...and glad to debunk all of the nay-sayers. Never believe anything that is by word of mouth or through established rumour mills. When in doubt, always check it out for yourself. There will always be someone who says you shouldn't do something or go somewhere. Follow your own path.

Word of the day...Mantoss

You wouldn't believe the trouble I went through just to shoot this image from the back of a taxi. I was on my way home from downtown Daegu and happened to glance out the window while at a red light. Of all of the safety devices I have seen, I had never seen one so appropriately worded. I have no idea if this was intentional, nor if the front of the vehicle had this splashed all over the front of the push bar...but the word mantoss caused all kinds of Death Race 2000 images to flood my imagination.

Since pedestrians do not have the right of way, at least not that I am aware of, the use of the word mantoss not only serves as a warning, but also describes the action of being tossed upon collision. Another fine example of how language is used here in Korea...and mass produced with millions not knowing what the meaning is, or perhaps they do.

Meanwhile the taxi driver observed me from his rear view mirror and wondered why I would roll down my window just to shoot a picture of a back of a car. I just smiled and said, mantoss...Nee Nee....and shook his head still not understanding a word.

The light turned green.

The Value of a Rice Cooker

Maybe it's just me that I find this totally absurd. Partially because in the west you just didn't see rice cookers priced over $100. Typically you can pick one up for less than $50 in the states, but they are not used that often and are often seen as a waste of space. Most people in the west prepare rice the old fashioned way, they use a pot...simmering it for the typical 20 minutes and you are finished.

However, here in the east, a rice cooker, is not just a rice cooker. Most of them are outfitted with microcomputers, have automatic presets, and are used at least once daily. Rice is nearly a part of every meal. Rarely is long grained rice used, with short grained rice prepared. The price of a 2 kg bag of rice is about 8 times the cost of a loaf of bread from a bakery.

I almost felt like asking if there were blue tooth devices, clock radios, or mp3 players loaded on these premium pressure cookers...and you know I do think I did see one with an MP3 player. The most expensive one I found was close to 1,000,000 won. I don't know if rice cookers were elevated to status symbols, almost like coffee makers are in the west, but that seems to be the case here.

Now a coffee maker here in Korea...is viewed as absurd. They sell instant coffee in convenient 'sticks'. 'Why would you need a coffee maker?' A salesperson asked me. Exactly my point about these Cadillac rice cookers, a pot for less than 20 dollars works just as well.

Jazz at "The Corner"

A change of plans, which happens in life...and admist my frustration with adjusting my scope...I decided to still make a night of it on Saturday. In downtown Daegu, I was needing something to divert my attention and I found live jazz.

I discovered a wonderful place called the corner.

When I went in the building I wanted to follow the wine bottles down the stairs.
However, that was not to be. Up three flights of stairs to find this sign greeting me...

(Keyword: Jazz)

As Foreign Girl (sitting at the bar) a friendly (but very drunk) man was trying to talk to me...and he was telling me how he liked being a photographer, but had run out of film (yes, film is still used). He then asked me a typical question, where I was from...oh that is a hard one for me to answer. He then proceeded to tell me that he loved me...note the absolute nuetrality in my pose...I was here, but used the opportunity of a bathroom break to change seats.

It started simple...just piano and a bass. The next number, a wonderful instrumental. With the audience getting into it, a vocalist sang two numbers. They then closed out the set with two full on instrumentals.

I had asked Chang-Hyun Park, the manager,the ensemble's name. Chang, told me they simply were called 'the quartet'.

Instad of my pictures...recorded at the Corner...The Qurartet....enjoy!

Fa-fa-fa-fashion...

Daegu is the center of the textile industry here in South Korea. They are indeed very proud of that status, and are hoping to conquer the world and have been working on their image. They aren't really known for design, and unfortunately what South Korea is known for is their lack of imagination and recapitalization efforts through the plagiarisms of other's work.

I think part of that problem is being so focused on mathematics and sciences, they have been able to flourish within the realms of the creative processes such as fashion. Fashion is often based on function and culture. What is acceptable to one culture, is not necessarily welcomed in others.

For example this "Sex and the City" boutique, and obvious attempt to piggyback off of the wildly popular HBO series and movie. However, in conservative Daegu, this just doesn't seem to work. The fashions are oddly conservative and don't match the name. Also, I just didn't see a pair of shoes that the main character, 'Carrie Bradshaw' would have been caught in a subway in. Hence, the name doesn't work for the Koreans and the styles don't work for tourists. A death in the making.

As I made the rounds, I did notice as far as shoes were concerned, you found very little in the way of sandals, or shoes that exposed a lot of 'toe cleavage'. This could be because a lot of taking our shoes on and off here...at homes, some places of work, and in traditional eating establishments...just to slide our feet into some slippers.

For women, this is what you mainly will see in Korea. Pumps and more pumps. Yes, we know we do know though there are never enough in our wardrobes (for us shoe whores), but for the most part...I kept feeling I needed to see something new and exciting, even perhaps outrageous.

As for dresses and skirts...short is the style...and isn't viewed as obscene because the women here are incredibly thin and have the most petite bone structures. They can get away with it...hmm I would be afraid to pick anything up.

I know this isn't Paris. Oh, but they do try so hard here!

The Bus Stop

I do know the streets of Daegu can be a little busy sometimes. However, I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this crossing-guard in the club district. Safety first folks! It seemed like a good picture to use since I realized this entry has a lot of vehicle imagery.

I spotted this mini...minus the noise of the wedding reception...announcing to the world the happy nuptials. Good luck kids...getting married in Korea is a lot easier than getting divorced.

However, I had to do a double take as this bus seemed to be planted into the side of a building.

A nice place to eat, if you don't mind people (like me) staring at you through the window. Complete with booths that reminded me of the 1950s, the patrons sit, but never really go anywhere.

But for good measure, had to throw in this shot warning taxi passengers to take care when opening their doors. Trust me, they drive with a death wish. As for the taxi drivers, just close your eyes and chant..."take me to a happy place."

"Korean Style...Korean Style!"

"Korean Style! Korean Style!" Is what this group of men screamed at me to goad me into taking their picture. So as I was going through my shots from the weekend...I thought why not? After all style is a way something is done, worn, or just has. It isn't fashion.

I must have that look that screams to be talked to...because I like to take my solitary adventures. Often, there are people that think I must be lonely because I am single. I kind of laugh because I feel like I have things that happen to me when I am alone and not with a group of people. Don't get me wrong, I adore my friends, but it just seems at times my life is full of magic. I think it is in part that I just look for it.

There are things I would possibly miss. The non-verbals of communication. I have to admit I had to wrestle my camera out of the bag for this procured shot. One dressed to the nines with even the placement the ad looking. Perhaps an unfair comparison, but telling.

Yet, somehow, as I was strutting down one of the side streets I was motioned into an opening for a new place. Though it was a new designer boutique, I found the food was more interesting than the clothes.

Also, a provocative announcement..."In Daegu Naked" which is set to be held this weekend...and those of you who do know me...will laugh at the dress code...'Black Chic'...at a time when I am trying to add more color into my wardrobe.
But this scene was perfect. I was wondering when men would start having to do their makeup...and I guess that time is now. Oh, soon we will start seeing blogs that offer beauty tips for men!

Triple X?

I am always scouting around for a couple of things...art and a great Jazz club. So I will take pictures and go back and research a bit...just to make sure I am walking into a place that won't waste my time. Perhaps, I could just walk inside, but sometimes, in a moment, you just don't have all of the information or time readily available.

So on this darkened side street (OK not really that darkened...since Korea seems to just love the Neon glow...hmmm and people are a bit like moths when we see colorful lights)...I found this club named Kennedy. A well presented exterior...but then I looked at the sign post...ah could there be a subtle dark side? I happened to see 'XXX?' posted...ah the plot thickens...

I am certain...somehow...someway...I will find the answer.

Back to the oddly funny...

I promise you really...it isn't all doom and gloom and war...just rumors of war that is over here at the present time in Korea...which there has been since the Korean war ended in the 1950s...but no worries...no time for a history lesson.

I know Christmas is over with...and so are the Lunar and solar New Year's celebrations...but I had to snap a shot of this rather large bowling pin. It just seemed oddly placed between the street vendors selling their wares. No one seems to own the huge bowling pin with its Christmas lights, but I am sure there is a bowling alley somewhere around, but as a foreigner deciphering the sign on the pin...all I can manage are the business hours from 1000 - 0200.

Perhaps if I looked up, I possibly would have been able to located the lanes, but why spoil it...the scene was enough to make me smile and take this shot.